A Whale of a Time in Bilbao

Pintxos in Plaza Nueva, Bilbao

To most people, the Basques are something of a mystery. One might get the idea that they’ve been an isolated group, never venturing far from home. Nothing could be further from the truth. It’s a whale of a story, and it starts in Bilbao.

It’s lunchtime in Plaza Nueva, Bilbao, Spain. We’re about to devour the four pintxos, (tapas), shown above. There’s one with shrimp and crab, one topped with Iberian ham, one with a mushroomy topping, and one with the classic Basque topping of anchovies and peppers.

We’re in the perfect place to absorb some Basque history along with our very Basque lunch, so here we go…

Back in the Day…

The Basques have been an ocean-going people from way back. They were highly regarded seamen and ship builders. Basque ships were unique, possibly influenced by what they learned from Viking visitors. Their unique ship designs allowed them to travel extensively.

Fishing has always been a big part of Basque life. They fished in the Bay of Biscay and beyond. The Bay of Biscay was, (and is), a favorite mating ground for whales. Basque fishermen were the first people to hunt the giant beasts.

The Basques hunted whales in the Bay of Biscay, and thanks to their unique ship designs, they were able to hunt whales all the way to North America. In fact, underwater archeologists have discovered 500-year-old Basque vessels off the coast of Canada’s Labrador Peninsula.

Whaling back in the day
Whaling back in the day. Credit: istcockphoto/Hein Nouwens

One of these boats was was specifically designed for whaling. It’s 6 feet wide, 26 feet long, and holds a crew of seven, including a steersman and a harpooner. Basque shipbuilding techniques were impressive. According to the Red Bay National Historic Site, the design and construction of this little boat is “one of the greatest achievements in marine technology.”

A Whale of a Time in Bilbao

There was a time when no one had yet been brave enough or perhaps crazy enough to hunt a whale. No one, that is, except for some Basques who thought they might give it a try. I can imagine how the conversation might have gone…

First Basque Fisherman, (Aitor) – “Inigo my friend! Did ya see all the whales in the bay this morning?”

Second Basque Fisherman, (Inigo) – “I did indeed, Aitor! Magnificent beasts, they are.”

Aitor – “If ya could catch a whale, it would feed the whole village for ten fortnights. Maybe you should give it a try.”

Inigo – “Aye. Ha ha. My nets are a bit on the small side for a catchin’ whales.”

Aitor – “Ya wouldn’t catch ‘im with a net. Ya’d harpoon ‘im!”

Inigo – “Huh? What’s a harpoon?”

Aitor – “It’s a big pointy stick with barbs and a rope attached to it. It’s my own invention.”

Inigo – “A big pointy stick, eh? How does it work?”

Aitor – “Well, you and your boys row your boat out into the bay. Get as close as ya can to where whales are frolicking. When one of the great beasts comes up for air, you stick ‘im with the harpoon. Then you just reel ‘im in!”

Inigo – “Oh, really? Just jab him with a pointy stick, reel him in, and toss him into the boat!”

Aitor – “No no no. Ya haul him into shore!”

Inigo – “Ohhhhh! Why didn’t ya say so? Simple! Hey, Aitor. I have an idea… You go first!”

Anyway…

OK. We weren’t there. But a conversation something like that had to take place at some point in history, eh?

Five hundred years ago, Basques were  able to hunt whales along the coast of North America – 2,500 miles from home. Surprising, no? Just wait!

To be continued…

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