Place Louis XIV is the largest and nicest square in St. Jean de Luz. Cities all over France have squares named in honor of a king. This square in St. Jean de Luz is named after the Sun King because he put St. Jean de Luz on the map – by getting married here.
It was no ordinary marriage. Sure, it was the marriage of a king. That in itself was a big deal. But this marriage was part of a peace treaty designed to bring an end to years of war all over Europe.
Let’s Back Up…
Armies were busy in seventeenth-century Europe. Most of the fighting was due to mutual fear and aggression between two royal families: the Bourbons in France, and the Spanish royalty of the day – the Habsburgs.
Habsburg alliances spread far and wide. The Dutch in the Netherlands, Portugal, Naples in the south, Sweden in the north – even the Ottomans and powers in Italy. Wherever a Habsburg-dominated group revolted, France joined in the fight against its arch-enemy. Just about all of Europe was at war at some level.
So when France and Spain decided to end the hostilities and live together peacefully, it was a big deal. A long series of negotiations resulted in a contract called the Peace of the Pyrenees.
The contract involved territorial agreements, political agreements, and one marriage agreement between a Habsburg and a Bourbon. That’s how they sealed the deal in those days.
It was agreed, as part of the Peace of the Pyrenees contract, that Maria Theresa, heir to the Spanish throne, would marry the king of France – the Sun King – Louis the 14th. Now THAT was big news.
Guess Where the Wedding Took Place?
The 3-hour wedding ceremony was performed in Eglise Saint-Jean-Baptiste, right here in little ol’ St. Jean de Luz. The church is still standing. It’s just down the street from our hotel.
Thanks to St. Jean de Luz’s lucrative sea-going activities, the little town had its share of wealthy families. One of these family residences, located on what is now Place Louis XIV, served has the Sun King’s residence before the wedding.
Maria Theresa and her staff took up residence in another nearby mansion. Preparations took weeks. One can imagine the buzz in the little town of St. Jean de Luz.
In 1660, they exchanged vows – as per the Peace of the Pyrenees contract – in Saint-Jean-Baptiste church. After the ceremony, the king ordered the main entrance to the church to be sealed up. Future generations of church-goers would have to enter through some other door.
The Sun King didn’t want anyone following in his royal footsteps, walking down the same aisle as he on their wedding day. Kings can be like that sometimes. It’s a king thing.
There’s a bronze plaque mounted on the sealed up door to commemorate the royal event. The plaque also informs us that Louis XIV is the guy responsible for no one being able to use the main door to the church.
Back to Normal?
Before that day in 1660, St. Jean de Luz was a quaint fishing village and port town. After that day in 1660, it was The Place Where King Louis XIV Married Maria Teresa of Spain. St. Jean de Luz instantly became a tourist destination.
Tourists – at least French tourists – fill hotels here now, but the fishing industry is still here, too. The Bay of Biscay is still well-known for its sardines.
And I’m havin’ some for dinner tonight!
To be continued…
The photo at the top of this post is of the Sun King as he appears on the gate to the place of Versailles. Credit: iStockphoto/Catherine Leblanc
