We’re in the middle of Cambodia on National Route 6, somewhere between Siem Reap and a place called Prek Kdam. The bus ride has been an unexpected treat, because we’re seeing the “real” Cambodia for the first time. We’ve left the temples and most of the tourists behind. Maybe this is what foreign visitors to the United States feel like when they leave Las Vegas and drive across middle America.
Cambodia After World War II
The ride has been interesting, but it has been sobering, too. This is a poor country. I had no idea how poor. Even though it’s sandwiched between two neighbors with growing economies, Cambodia’s level of prosperity is more in line with that of a third world country.
As noted previously, Cambodia had a stable, if not blazing economy for many years. In the 19th century, when France was colonizing Southeast Asia, it made Cambodia a French protectorate. After World War II, Cambodia gained its independence. Things were looking up, but it wasn’t long before it got dragged into the war in Vietnam.
Enter the Khmer Rouge
To complicate matters, Cambodia was in the midst of its own civil war, which the Western-supported Cambodian government lost, and the communist Khmer Rouge won. That was in 1975. Five years of pure hell followed for the Cambodian people at the hands of its own leaders.
Enter Vietnam
The Khmer Rouge had a habit of crossing the border to raid Vietnamese areas it believed belonged to Cambodia. In 1979, Vietnam had had enough. Vietnam invaded Cambodia, took Phnom Penh, and drove the Khmer Rouge leadership off to hide in the forests of the northwestern corner of the country. The Vietnamese installed a fellow named Hun Sen as the new leader of Cambodia.
After Vietnam stormed Cambodia, China, (a Khmer Rouge ally), invaded Vietnam to teach it a lesson, but Vietnam drove the Chinese back where they came from. Back then, Russia was pals with Vietnam, and China was pals with Cambodia. A kind of stalemate ensued between these and all other major Asian powers. Messy, eh?
Cambodian Independence
In 1991 the mess was cleared up, sort of. In the Paris Agreement of 1991, all parties agreed to establish a coalition government in Cambodia. Leadership would be shared by Hun Sen, and the ever-present Norodom Sihanouk. Part of the agreement was that free elections would be held, supervised by the United Nations.
Elections were actually held, but over time, one way or another, by hook or by crook, regardless of who won what, the winner, somehow, was always Hun Sen. And guess what? He’s been “winning” ever since. He’s STILL Prime Minister of Cambodia(!)
In fact, Hun Sen is the world’s longest-serving living prime minister. He’s been in office for 30+ years. No one can accuse him of not being able to hold a job, eh?
Longest-Ruling Modern Leaders
There are a few guys who are ahead of Hun Sen in the longest-time-as-still-living-leader contest. Actually there are four, if we count religious leaders. One is Ali Khamenei, in Iran. The other three are leaders of Third World nations in Africa. (The all-time record holder is Fidel Castro. He was in office for 52 years. – Something for these guys to aspire to, I suppose).
Can you imagine having the same person in charge for three decades? There would have to be some kind of really effective “machine” in place to make that happen, eh? And after thirty years of growing roots, think of the confidants, extended family, pals, and pals of pals who’d be entrenched in every nook and cranny of the government, armed forces, law enforcement, and any agency you can think of.
The Boat! The Boat!
Not to change the subject, but our bus ride appears to be coming to a close. The driver has pulled off the road and we’re parking. We’re next to a river, and we can see a boat tied to the shore nearby. Hey – that must be our boat!
We’re in the vicinity of Prek Kdam, a city on the Tonlé Sap river. I say, “in the vicinity,” because to me, it looks like we’re in the middle of nowhere. Because of the low water level, the crew had to find a suitable place to get us all on board, and this must be it.
The next thing I knew, we were off the bus and people were doing everything for us…
“Carry your own bag? No way. We’ve got this covered!”
“Watch your step! Welcome aboard!”
“Here’s a cool washcloth. It’ll cool you down.”
OK, then. Let the pampering begin! I’ll try to get used to it!
To be continued…
