Today we spent the morning exploring the open-air market in and around Place de l’Hotel in Aix-en-Provence. Then we had lunch and returned to the room for some rest and relaxation. Can’t be on the go all the time. We are on vacation, after all.
We’re going to be on the go tomorrow, though. We’re going to a place that has a special aura about it. Even though its heyday was back in the 14th century, there’s still something special about it today.
We’re going to Avignon. To pronounce it, pretend you’re at a restaurant. When the waiter asks you what you want, you say, “I’ll have the filet mignon.” Now leave off the “I’ll,” “the filet,” and “mi”, so it’s just “have ignon.” Now say what’s left, but leave off the “h” sound, and I bet you’ll sound like you were born and raised in Provence.
It’s getting to be late in the afternoon, when shops and cafés start to come alive. We’ve had enough rest and relaxation for one day, so we’re venturing out.
Place de l’Hotel
After walking around for a while we ended up at the same square that was the center of the market activity this morning. It’s calmed down now. This square is called “Place de l’Hotel,” because the “Hotel de Ville” is located here.
You may recall that in french, the word, “hotel” is used for all kinds of buildings, especially for municipal buildings. The “Hotel de Ville” translates to “City Hall.”
I wonder how many unsuspecting tourists have walked into city hall and asked for a room for the night?
Tourist — “Uh, excuse me…Hello? Ahem. Ma’am? Bone-jure?”
Receptionist — “Oui?”
Tourist — “How much for a room for the night?”
Receptionist — “Une salle pour se soir? Nonh. Il n’ya pas de “room for the night” ici.” (“A room for the night? No. There aren’t any ‘rooms for the night’ here.”)
Tourist — “Well, is this a hotel, or not? Because the sign out front says ‘hotel'”
Receptionist — “C’est l’Hotel de Ville.” (“This is City Hall.”)
Tourist — “Well then how much is a room for the night?”
Receptionist — (To herself), “Mon Dieu… “
We found a nice-looking outdoor café and installed ourselves in a good people-watching spot on the terrace. From this vantage point we could have a little refreshment and map out our plan for our trip to Avignon tomorrow.
Across the square, next to the Hotel de Ville, there’s bell tower. The tower itself was built about 500 years ago, right around the time when Christopher Columbus was exploring islands in the Caribbean. The clock is relatively “new.” It was added in 1661.
Avignon’s Heyday
That was a long time ago, but Avignon’s heyday was way back in the 14th century, 300 years before that clock was installed. By the way, do you know why it’s called the “14th century”, even though it covers the years between 1300 and 1399? There’s no “14” in there at all. It’s done to make things just a little bit more confusing for kids taking 8th grade history. That’s the only reason.
Geography-wise, things around here were a lot different in the 14th century. For one thing, there weren’t any countries in Europe. There were kingdoms, (ruled by kings), counties, (ruled by counts), and duchies, (ruled by dukes). Countries would come later.
The kingdom of France was where France is now, but back then it didn’t extend this far south. The area that is Spain today was divided between the kingdoms of Aragon and Castille.
The kingdom of Naples took up the lower half of the Italian boot, and even extended into where southern France is now. In fact, the city of Avignon was in the Kingdom of Naples.
That’s right — Naples wasn’t just a city back then. It was a huge Kingdom. Kind of surprising, but if you think about it, should we expect anything less from the land where pizza and neapolitan ice cream were invented?
But getting back to the here and now, the cocktail hour has arrived. I’m going to order a drink that’s a Provencal specialty — pastis. (It’s pronounced “pass-teese.” This is one of those times where the “s” on the back end of a French word isn’t silent). Pastis is 40% alcohol, so the next Travel Letter might be interesting!
To be continued…
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