The South of France is beautiful in the fall. In Aix-en-Provence, leaves on the huge trees lining Cours Mirabeau are turning colors and starting to drop. We’ve been using Aix as our home base for making day-trips to explore Provence. Today we’ll go take our first look at Avignon. Finally!
After having breakfast at the hotel, we got ready and hit the road. The first challenge of the day was to get the car out of the tiny parking lot behind the hotel. Good thing we had power steering. When we finally got ourselves pointed toward the big iron exit gate, it swung silently open. Then two thick cylindrical guard posts automatically sunk into the ground, clearing our way to get to the street.
Road-Trip!
Yesterday was a “rest day.” We stayed in town and enjoyed Aix. That was nice, but now it felt good to be back out on the road. The drive through the lush provençal countryside from Aix to Avignon takes about an hour.
Before long we could see Avignon in the distance. Much of the huge wall that surrounded the city back in the 14th century is still there. Wow. They weren’t messing around when they built that wall. It is BIG.
We entered the town through what must have been one of the main gates back in the day. Maybe it’s the same gate Queen Joanna of Naples came through when she rode into Avignon to see the pope 700 years ago.
Our entrance to the city wasn’t quite as grand as Joanna’s. There was no carpet of rose petals covering the street. No giant tapestries hanging from buildings along the route. No adoring subjects waving from balconies bedecked with flowers. Nope. Not today.
Instead of heading straight to the pope’s palace like Joanna probably did, we drove to a big parking lot, large enough to accommodate the zillion tourists that come here each year. Since Avignon has such an interesting history, we decided to take a guided tour instead of exploring on our own.
Le Palais des Papes
Our first stop was the Pope’s Palace, or more correctly, “The Palace of the Popes.” As palaces go, this is a spooky one. No resemblance to the fairy-tale castles of northern France. This one looks more like the lair of an evil wizard in a Tolkien story. No hobbit with any hobbit-sense would want to go inside this place.
I think the pope’s architects designed it this way on purpose. They were going for the intimidation factor more than anything else. They succeeded!
We went inside, but I made sure the guide went in first. He took us all through the place. We walked into courtyards, through cavernous rooms, down dark little passageways, up and down worn, uneven stone stairways. This palace is the size of four gothic cathedrals, so visitors are going to do some walking.
Like many gothic buildings in France, this one has seen its share of rioting and destruction over the years. It’s been used as barracks for more than one occupying army. You have to use your imagination to get the most out of the visit. Having a good guide helps.
Our guide took us into Pope Cement VI’s private study, known as the “Stag Room.” In Clement’s day, this room had been adorned with tapestries showing hunting scenes. That was unexpected, but I guess even a pope needs an occasional break from the rigors of the job, eh?
Le Pont d’Avignon
We made our way to the top level of the palace, where we could look out over green fields on the other side of the Rhône river. From here we could see the famous bridge. It’s famous because of the French children’s song, “Sur le Pont D’Avignon.” (On the Avignon Bridge). It’s a catchy kid’s tune about dancing on the bridge, and there’s a traditional dance to go along with it.
The song is so well-known that even Bart Simpson knows it. He sang “Sur le Pont D’Avignon” in “The Simpson’s” episode titled, “The Crepes of Wrath,” in which Bart was sent to France as an exchange student. But I digress…
The Rhône river floods periodically. Floods washed the bridge out so many times, they stopped rebuilding it a long time ago. Ever since, it goes half-way across the river and then just stops.
Big Mistake
In the 12th century, when the bridge was first built, Avignon was an up-and-coming town at the intersection of trade routes. It wasn’t part of any kingdom. A council of knights and representatives governed the city. After the bridge was built, they were pretty full of themselves, apparently.
In 1226, the King of France was in the area with his army, hunting down enemies of the kingdom. He asked for permission to pass through Avignon and for use of the bridge. His request was denied. Big mistake. The French army laid siege to the city for three months. When Avignon’s council caved, the conquering army went in and destroyed the place. Doh!
The French king and his army went on their way, and the people in Avignon eventually rebuilt their city. Things settled down. Then, in the year 1309, the pope moved into the neighborhood.
To be continued…
Photo at the top of this post of the gate, Porte de la République, into Avignon. Credit: Véronique Pagnier/Wikimedia Commons
