A map of Venice looks like a picture of a fish. The Grand Canal winds its way through the middle of the fish. The lower part of the fish is the Dorsoduro district. It’s off the beaten path for most tourists, but it’s a great district to stay in or visit. And even though it’s not a large area, it’s an easy place to get lost. I proved it!
The Dorsoduro is calmer than central Venice, where we’re staying in this time. It has a laid-back neighborhood feel to it. On our first trip to Venice we stayed in a hotel there.
The Dorsoduro
Every morning, as is my usual habit when we’re on vacation in a new place, I’d get up early and go out to do some exploring. Neighborhoods have a different vibe early in the morning, before the tourists come out to play. Sometimes I’d find an interesting-looking restaurant or who-knows-what that we might want to come back and visit.
On our first morning waking up in Venice, I went out for one of these little walks. I must have walked a bit farther than usual. When it was time to head back, I realized that I wasn’t 100% sure which way “back” was.
Lost
Being quite secure in my manhood, unashamed to put my lack of all-knowingness on full display, (in a far-away land where nobody knows me or will ever see me again), I decided to ask for directions. I stopped a lady who was on her way to work and asked her how to get back to our hotel. Here’s what we said…
Nice Lady — “See the pink building down there that way?”
Me — “The big one with the flowers in the windows?”
Nice Lady — “Sì. Go down to that building, and when you get there, giri a sinistra.”
Me — “Turn left?”
Nice Lady — “Sì. Then you’re gonna cross a canale. Cross the canale, then giri a destra.”
Me — “Turn right on the other side of the canal?”
Nice Lady — “Sì. Go down 2 calli, and turn left on the 2nd calle. There will be a green building at the corner.”
Me — “Turn left on the 2nd street where the green building is.”
Nice Lady — “Sì. Go 20 meters, then find someone and ask for more directions.”
Me — “Say what!? Er… uh… sì! Grazie.”
Not There Yet
I followed her instructions to a tee, and when I reached the designated spot, I stopped a youngster to ask him for directions. He appeared to be on his way to school. Here’s how that conversation went…
Youngster — “You see that ponte down there that crosses the canale?”
Me — “The bridge with the boat parked next to it?”
Youngster — “Sì. Go down to the ponte, cross over the canale, then keep going straight.”
Me — “Cross over and keep going straight.”
Youngster — “Sì. Go straight for about 40 meters. There you will see a little chiesa. Turn right on the calle next to the chiesa.”
Me — “Right on the calle next to the church. OK.”
Youngster — “You’re gonna come to a campo.”
Me — “What’s a campo?”
Youngster — “It’s like a little square.”
Me — “What do I do when I reach the campo?”
Youngster — “Find someone and ask for more directions.”
Me — “Say what!? Er… uh… sì! Grazie.”
This routine was repeated at least — yes, AT LEAST — 2 more times. By the time I got back to the hotel, I felt like I’d met half the population of the Dorsoduro. This experience gave new meaning to the word, “lost,” at least for me.
A Venetian Oasis
If you’re not lost, (or even if you are), the Dorsoduro is a nice, relaxing place to be. Late afternoons here is dog-walking time. You can have a glass of vino and let the dog-walkers entertain you.
If we wanted to go where the action was, we could walk to the “Accademia” vaporetto stop, and take a boat-ride over to Piazza San Marco.
A “vaporetto” is a public bus that’s a boat. It’s like a ferry for people only – no cars. The ride is inexpensive, and you can get anywhere in Venice on a vaporetto without much hassle.
Our stop is called “Accademia” because it’s right next door to the “Gallerie dell’Accademia”, or just “Accademia” for short. The Accademia is a museum, and there’s something in there that you really have to see….
To be continued…
Notes
We stayed at Hotel American Dinesen in the Dorsoduro district. Loved it.
Great photo at the top of this post: View from the Academy Bridge. Credit: Zairon/Wikimedia Commons
